John O’Groats didn’t seem to me to be the right place to end our trip –
It was hardly the end of a long
road and looking out north what could you see – Land, albeit an island or two! The journey to Thurso confirmed my doubts, How can this be the end when you can so easily catch another bus that goes a totally different way to the one you arrived on – There must be a true end beyond here., somewhere on Orkney.
road and looking out north what could you see – Land, albeit an island or two! The journey to Thurso confirmed my doubts, How can this be the end when you can so easily catch another bus that goes a totally different way to the one you arrived on – There must be a true end beyond here., somewhere on Orkney.
So whilst Jez made his way back south, I wanted to push on
north – but at this point some subtle rule bending was needed. Getting Orkney requires the use of a boat (obviously)… However, a scheduled boat that you can 'turn up for and
pay'? It fitted the principle of being a “scheduled service” – but on
water!
Having taken advice from a driver the previous day, I set off on foot to walk from Thurso to the ferry terminal
at Scrabster. The boat sails at 0845 and passengers must be booked in by
0815. The connecting bus arrives at 0824 which he felt might be too late. “If
they have all the passengers they sail early” was the warning and a very
accurate reflection of what happened. At 0835 we set sail from Scabster on the
Northlink Ferry across to Stromness on Orkney.
The sailing takes 90 minutes and sunrise was seen
over a still sea. It seemed a good day
to sail, but why was I crossing to Orkney? Looking at the Bus Map there was one
route that stuck out, going out east almost as far as you could go. This looked
like the true end of the road – the right place to finish. The final timing
point confirmed this, Deerness Lighthouse Corner. Now that sounds like a place
you cannot go much further than!
Stagecoach X1 |
The bus to Deerness runs a few times a day and I planned to
catch the 1300 departure from Kirkwall, giving me some time on Orkney to
explore a little. At Stromness
I caught the 1040 bus (route X1) towards Kirkwall. The X1 is the main route
across the Orkney Mainland running hourly and also serving the “other” ferry
terminal at St Margaret’s Hope. Wishing
to see something of the Islands I stayed on when we reached Kirkwall and
continued to St. Margaret’s Bay Ferry Terminal, where we were due at 1145.
In the winter there are two ferry routes from the north of
Scotland across to Orkney, The Scrabster to Stronmess which I had used was a large boat, on a service heavily supported by the Scottish
Government. The second crossing is from St Margaret’s Hope to a small harbour
called Gills Bay, mid way between Thurso and John O’Groats. This is a private
venture, with no subsidy and operated by a large, vehicle carrying,
Catamaran. The contrast could not be greater
between operations. The ferry was due to leave at 1150; as we
arrived in the bus at 1145 someone was on hand to usher any connecting
passengers from the bus to the boat. Not being there 30 minutes early, this was
integrated transport at its best! At 1150 the thrust from the Catamarans engines spring the
vessel into life and it was soon out of sight at a goodly rate of knots.
Stagecoach 3 |
At the allotted time we continued our journey to Deerness,
via Tankerness, an enjoyable ride around the lanes – with the sea always in
view, somewhere or other. My driver, who was the “regular driver”, gave a
running commentary about who lived where when we went past and all that was
happening in the community. Eastward we
continued until we reached the terminal at Lighthouse Corner. Looking around there was no obvious lighthouse at this point - a road junction it was possible to turn the bus round
at. My driver explained it was named because of the number of lighthouses
you can see from that point (perhaps best observed at night!).
Reaching this outpost how was I going to record the
fact that I was here?. Nothing for it... I would have to do a “selfie”
(which I am assured by my daughter is the correct name of a photo you take of
yourself!) with the bus in it!
Thus ended the trip, not so much LEJOG but more LED. To be
honest that doesn’t have the same ring to it! At least we have set a benchmark
for eccentric bus (& boat) trips: Lands End to Deerness via Ipswich. If
anyone wants to go one better it will be a challenge: With the inclusion of Ferries
it could start from St Agnes (in the Isles of Scilly) to Haroldswick on Unst (in Shetland)
by bus and boat, via Havergate Island in the east and Skomer in the west! I think I would be prepared to accept that as going one
better!
So that was it – the end of the line. All that was left
was to return! The journey back was busier – we had two passengers, although no one
boarded (quel surprise) at Airport Terminal Building. From Kirkwall it was the 1435 Stagecoach X1
back to Stromness giving a good hour or so to explore the town before boarding
the Ferry back. Stromness is a interesting town. The main street just feels
like it should be traffic free – it would make an excellent pedestrianised area. It isn't though, and lorries squeeze past cars.
The 1645 boat back to Scrabster was also quiet, which gave a
chance to dine in the restaurant! Not
sure such a crossing needs such facilities, but it may explain the
subsidy! (Mind you the service was
quick!).
The evening is a repeat of the morning - there is a
bus connection, but arriving too late to provide a reliable connection
to the boat. However, it did offer the foot passenger off the boat a coach, not just to
Thurso, but onward to Inverness. Also, having the bus timed to arrive after the vehicles had disembarked from Orkney and those those
waiting to travel were on board saved the bus from being caught in the various traffic
movements!
Stage one of the journey home complete.